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Tuesday, September 6, 2011

If They Came to Hear Me Beg...

Today I felt homesick. I got over it.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Give Up the Ghost

Aside from attending my JTE's father's wake, there has been one other emotional ceremony here: graduation. And I'm not talking high school graduation when you're 18 and ready to get the hell out of your parents house and go to college. Japan makes a huge deal out of ALL graduations. I have a school with five children in it. One girl was graduating 6th grade and moving into junior high... upstairs. She had a 45 minute ceremony... Just. For. Her.

Don't mind the bitterness seeping out of my face. That's just the recollection of hours of sitting in the school gym watching the kids march around the stage, sing the same songs, and basically slaughter any sentiment that a graduation ceremony could have by practicing it to death.

Or, that's how I felt before.

When graduation day came, I couldn't have expected it to be the torrential wave of melancholy that it was. I thought: they've been practicing this for weeks; this won't be that emotional. Case in point: during rehearsal, when the graduating students turned to the students they would be leaving and sang an emotional song, I was almost outraged that they would practice it that way. REALLY? I thought. They're going to practice this emotional song the exact way it's going to be at the ceremony just because Japan is obsessed with formal ceremonies?! That takes ALL the feeling out of it! It's not going to mean anything come graduation!


Silly me. The younger students could hardly contain themselves the day of. Even more sadistic, they had to sing a song back to the graduating students, red-faced and blubbering. "Wasurenaide, sayounara to iou~"

Really, really sad. Way to drive it home, whoever picked that song.

If you don't already know, high school is not considered mandatory education in Japan. After middle school, you are free to become a fisherman without the country considering your parents child laborers. You'd probably be lost at sea when a fish three times your body weight pulled you into the water, but you could be a fisherman if you really wanted to.

Kids usually go away for high school, as Westerners go away for college. The underachievers in my village stay close to home, but hey, at least they're not doomed fishermen. One of my students was accepted into a university in Tokyo. Luckily, her grandmother lives there and can board her. Another of my students went to Aomori City and is living with a host family for the duration of her high school years. I asked her if she knew the people she would be living with. She said no; she had just met them a week before I asked-- about a month before graduation. Wow. Talk about a culture difference. Kids who don't have family in the area in which they want to attend high school or don't secure a host family live in school housing: dorms. Remember, we're talking about kids who just graduated middle school living away from home. But anyway, I digress...

Graduation was heart-wrenching. I'd only known the kids for 7 months (some of their teachers had known them for all three years), so I wasn't expecting anyone to really feel that broken up about saying goodbye to me. But could you blame me for being a little sad? I don't proclaim to be a great lover of children, but I do try to make the most of my time here in Japan. Well, as much as my ability permits. Sometimes I just don't have the right words to say. I think my kids understand that I like them though. Hopefully.

Back on topic, I couldn't believe how sad everyone was. Even the mayor's son, who's like the cool, young-ish, snarky teacher had his head bowed, tears plopping straight down to his chest from his eyes. He didn't look at a single kid as their procession finally filed out of the gym. It was a very humanizing scene, something I felt was extremely powerful and telling. I could honestly say I'd never experienced anything quite like graduation.

But the ceremony wasn't the end. After the marching, the songs, and the seemingly endless speeches, the mood shifted. Honestly, it was like suddenly the sun pierced the rainclouds and filtered into the school. The floor-to-wall length window in the assembly hall probably had something to do with it.

One by one, the graduating students walked down the stairs to great applause. Then, like the final scene of a movie, everyone sang a song. The crying had abated for now. Everyone sang and smiled. When the song was over, it was time for the students to go home. I stood awkwardly in the assembly hall as the kids said goodbye and hugged their favorite teachers. I actually almost cried. At that moment, I felt like a true outcast.  It was a profoundly poignant thought, that seven months of my life could have had no affect on anyone.

That's when Kazusa came up to me with a large, pink envelope. Inside was a decorated card with a picture of all of the students and a goodbye note from each of them. She looked at me with a thousand words split between her eyes and tongue. It's hard for middle schoolers to express themselves in English. I've been lucky that I speak the amount of Japanese that I do. I don't know how I'd connect with the kids otherwise sometimes. Kazusa gave me a big hug and thanked me sincerely. She started to cry, which made me cry, and we both cried and hugged each other until we were sufficiently certain that we were being silly. I told her good luck, that she was a wonderful student, and that I know for a fact that she is very smart. She told me that she didn't like English very much before I got there but that now she was going to really try. I haven't heard anything as rewarding since. She was the only one to write her goodbye note completely in English. It wasn't perfect, but from the student whose first words to me were, "I don't speak English," I considered it a mission accomplished. It is one of the most rewarding feelings I've ever experienced. She truly validated all seven months of my time there.

We drew nearer to the door. None of the boys came to say goodbye. They were out the door as fast as possible. Only a few stragglers remained. I was delighted that Kazusa had said goodbye to me, but my heart still ached a little that nobody else cared. And then Mizuho saw me. She was still in the genkan, putting on her shoes when she turned around and saw me standing there. It was another scene ripped straight off of a reel of film. She flung herself on me, tears renewed, sobbing onto my shoulder. I held her for at least five minutes, her alternating between looking at me and burying her eyes into my shirt. I'd never had that experience before, of a child heartbroken to leave me. Needless to say, I was emotional. I cupped her face and told her that I was so proud of her for getting into the high school she had wanted. I didn't want to say goodbye to her. Before graduation, I had handwritten all 14 of them goodbye letters (in Japanese) with an e-mail address with which they could reach me. I told them if they ever planned to go to America, had any questions about English, etc., they could always contact me.

I hope she hasn't lost it.

The sadness of parting fades as all sadness does. I still have great kids to teach even though the others are gone. What is really daunting is that since I re-contracted for another year, I have to attend ANOTHER graduation. I really don't know what to expect next year. I'll be saying goodbye to kids I'll have known for a year and a half. If that weren't enough, when I leave that July, I'll have to say goodbye to all four schools-- to children I've known for two years.

It's difficult to think about, but I keep telling myself that my life isn't here in Japan. It isn't in Aomori. But it's not as if I yearn to stay. The pull of familiarity tugs hard from both directions, but I need to go back to the US. I know my life is there; it's just that leaving a life I've worked hard to cultivate for two years will be no great joy. I know once I'm back in the States, however, I'll realize that everything is as it should be, and Sai can change someone else's life now.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

ブログなう!

Living in Japan has been quite the experience. I have now been here for ten months, and I'm happy to report that there have been far more ups than downs while living here. Having said that, the purpose of this blog isn't to necessarily encourage you to join the JET Program (they're not paying me enough to justify advertising in my spare time); it's more to give everyone the information one would need to make the big life decision of moving to Japan.

You know moving to Japan is huge. You've heard the warnings, the cautions, the encouragement. For a few minutes, consider what moving to Japan will do for you as a person. Consider how you will cope with:

1) Living alone
2) Making new friends (or sucking at life and making no friends)
3) Being the only foreigner in your location
4) Possibly having a long-drop toilet
5) The language barrier
6) Homesickness
7) Driving/Commuting
8) Never connecting with a Japanese person or fitting into the community
9) Being an assistant teacher
10) Being treated like a full-fledged teacher
11) Being reprimanded for your habits, your clothes, etc.
12) Being a novelty

Yes, I put having a long-drop toilet before overcoming the language barrier. What the fuck. I would never want one of those.

Anyway, my point is that living in Japan isn't 100% EXCITINGEASYSPECTACULARANIMECOSPLAYRAMEN!

It just isn't.

It's life. You don't come to Japan and put your life on hold. You're still going to be living your life, just in a different location. You still have to do dishes, take out the trash, pay bills, allot yourself time to de-stress...

Don't come here expecting things to be so wildly different that you are no longer you. That's not the case. The worst thing you can do is come here with unrealistic (or unevaluated) expectations. What I mean by "unevaluated" is that you really need to think things through. JET can be fun; JET can be the bane of your existence, and sometimes it's not up to you which one it is. Your BoE can make your life a living hell or it can give you free nenkyuu just because you have a pretty face. JET is "what you make it" only to an extent. You can't control what BoE you get or if you're a prefectural ALT. Gird yourself for hard times.

Stepping out of the Negative Nancy shoes, my personal experience on JET has been very good. I have a nice house, I'm safe from tsunami; I'm reimbursed for gas I use to travel to my two schools in the mountains; my kids are well-behaved; I started playing futsal and have made some Japanese friends; my Japanese is improving; the ALTs around me have become some of my best friends; my BoE cares about my safety; my supervisor is incredibly easy to work with; I am not expected to act as a full-time teacher (making lesson plans, staying at school late, etc.); and I'm not made to feel guilty about anything.

I'm not exaggerating when I say I have the best placement in all of Japan. I'm proud of Sai. It's a beautiful place with great people. (Do you see how the gushing is slowly getting more annoying than the previous negativity?) I'm treated very well here, but I also don't ask for help that often and am really low maintenance. I try to make my supervisor's job as easy as possible, which I'm sure she appreciates. (She's a busy lady being a yakuza and all.) 

One of the most important pieces of advice I can offer you is: be an adult. My friends and I can act like retards when we're together (PC mumbo jumbo, GTFO), but when I'm in public, I conduct myself professionally. Living in a small village mandates this. Someone sees me wherever I go. People talk. I don't want one immature action to haunt me for the rest of my time here. I'm not saying you have to wear a suit all the time and walk around frowning. Be yourself, but remember to have a little restraint. Teachers in Japan are role models. Make sure your students (and their parents) see you in the best possible light.

Make sure you have a goal in mind when you get here even if your goal is to come up with a goal while you're here. It's really easy to set your time here on JET aside from your normal life but DON'T DO IT. If you don't plan on staying in Japan for the rest of your life (or even the five consecutive years you're allowed to be in JET), spend your free time preparing for the future you know you want. A lot of ALTs I know are applying to graduate school or are in the process of at least searching for which schools they'd eventually like to get into once they leave Japan.

Another thing... if you get here and absolutely hate it, don't fucking break your contract. It's a huge inconvenience for your contracting organization, and it's a really poor reflection of you, your country, and the JET Program, which is already in danger of being terminated. For some reason, you are completely free to break your contract without legal penalization. You'll have to pay your own way to get back home and be a douchebag though.

If you're a sensitive person, this experience is still possible for you. This is the first time I've ever lived on my own. After high school, I had a roommate for a year and a half at university, and then my boyfriend and I rented an apartment together. It's not so bad though. In fact, if I didn't have a boyfriend to miss, I'd be perfectly content where I am right now. Living alone is the best way to get to know your own needs and solidify who you are. In my opinion anyway. It is imperative to get out at times, however. Make friends! Explore!

Hopefully I'll be able to write about all the other things I've wanted to talk about soon. Between work, studying Japanese, and trying to stay sane, I don't have much time for blogging. I do think they're somewhat helpful though, so I'll keep writing them. Maybe I do have enough time and I'm just being lazy. It's probably that.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Ouch. I think you hurt my man-feelings with that one.

A simple blog to list some creature comforts you might find useful for your sanity during your stay on JET. (These will be in no particular order other than the order they spring to mind.)

1) A gaming system. Actually, this is my number one comfort. I lasted 5 months without my 360. By the fourth month, I was nearly shaking from withdrawals. Laugh all you want. Imagine living without your favorite hobby... and me laughing at you... laughing at your tears. My point is: whatever your favorite hobby is, don't just leave it behind in your home country. I didn't have enough room in my suitcase when first coming to Japan, and for a while, I was completely fine exploring my village and making new friends; however, after four months of this, I needed that piece of me I had left back in the US. Now that I have it, I'm less stressed and just generally happier to have something to do besides wait for someone to say something interesting on Facebook.

2) Your favorite toiletries. Yes, Japan probably has an alternative to whatever you use at home, but finding the right substitute costs money and can lead to frustration. If you have a favorite deodorant, lip gloss, chapstick, hair gel, shampoo, conditioner, lotion, etc., just bring it. The bottom line is that you're used to smelling a certain way. It can affect how you feel about yourself. In the first scorching-hot months you're here, don't you want to be at ease knowing you've put on a deodorant that isn't going to let you stink up the mayor's office when you meet him? If your Japanese isn't that great, wouldn't it be nice to have time to figure out which shampoo you'll switch to when your one from home runs out instead of panicking during your first visit to the grocery store when you can't read anything on the bottles? It'll probably take a little while to get used to living in Japan. Having these small items can really help.

3) Books in your native language. This isn't to say you can't find books in your native tongue or order them online, but I've found that it's nice to have some books in English around even if I don't read them that often. Books you've started but haven't finished are good. Who wants to buy a duplicate of a book if it's not possible for the original to be shipped to you? Just bring it.

4) Photos. This one may seem pretty obvious, but in this day and age, it's more common to have pictures on your computer than pictures by your bedside. You should bring pictures of your town/country/family/school to share with your students anyway. Bring some personal ones as well that you can look at when you're feeling down. I keep taking pictures, but they're just sitting on my iPhone or my laptop. There's a camera shop right down the road where I'm sure I could have them printed, but because I'm nervous, I haven't set foot in it. You'd think after eight months I'd be over it. The truth is that it's always awkward to meet people who already know about you. You feel obligated to talk to them. They're going to remember what you buy. I don't know if you're used to that stuff, but I'm definitely not. JET doesn't lie to you when they say you could turn into the town celebrity or at least the town walking piece of art.

5) Shoes. If you have big feet, ladies, bring cute shoes from home. Japan has the cutest shoes in the world, but if your feet are larger than a US size 8, be warned: you will probably not be able to wear any of them. When I went home for winter vacation, I bought about eight new pairs of shoes just to soothe my craving. It's hard not being able to buy the cutest shoes in the world! Guys, unless you're a basketball player (or the size of one), you should be fine. Still, bring your Nikes and your favorite dress shoes. Most men's Japanese shoes have a heel on them. If you're not into that sort of thing, bring your own. There are some really bitchin' tennis shoes here though.

6) Toothpaste. I know this should go under toiletries, but it's important enough to have its own category. Japanese toothpaste often has lower levels of fluoride (which fights cavities) than US toothpaste. We also have fancy whitening paste with peroxide bubbles, baking soda, magic fairies, etc. I brought two tubes of Sensodyne and a big tube of Crest (or something like that) with me. When I came back from winter vacation, I brought back even more to last me for the rest of the year. My teeth are not things I want to leave to chance. If you're like me, bring toothpaste from a brand you trust whose ingredients are in a language you know well. As a side note: Japan's toothbrushes are pretty simple. They don't often have zillions of bristles, have middles that flex, or pick up your morning paper. If you're cool with a plain, broad toothbrush, you'll find oodles of those in Japan. Toothbrushes take up hardly any room in a suitcase. Why not bring ones you really like?

7) Contacts. I am about to tell you something awesome. 1-800-Contacts does not check the prescriptions of international orders. Go to the website, pick your contacts, enter the power/diameter/whatever else it asks you, and ship them to your Japanese address. It takes one day for them to "verify" your prescription. (Funny, I didn't even tell you the name of my optometrist...) You'll receive your boxes of contacts in about two weeks. Personally, my prescription expired sometime last July. I received my contacts precisely two weeks later, and I am as happy as a clam that never dies but is super excited about immortality.

8) Credit card. To buy stuff online with. Come on, people.

Don't freak out and take everything with you. You do not need your baby blanket. Your DVD collection does not have to follow you across the ocean. Bring your absolute favorites, sure-- things you'd like to share with your new friends; movies that lift you up when you're depressed (and you will have those days). I live in one of the most rural areas of Japan, and I'm doing just fine. Sure, it takes me almost four hours to drive to the main city, but living in Sai is amazing. The sunsets, the nature, the students... If you are my successor, you have the most amazing job waiting for you.

There are probably other comforts I've forgotten to mention, but I'm pretty sure you know what you like and can't live without. These are just the ones that stuck out to me the most. If you have any questions about specific products, let me know, and I'll try to see if they're available in Japan.

This concludes our broadcast day. Bloop.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

TOBY! You are close to death!

As I will be on the JET Program for two years, I decided to go home for winter vacation. Initially, I had firmly decided against flying back to the States due to the cost; however, I started to miss my boyfriend and caved easily when a friend of mine, Shadowcat, told me that a trip home wouldn't be a bad idea. Damnit. I'm not as stone-cold as I thought.

As I helped Shadowcat plan her itinerary for getting to Narita airport, my resistance to going back home crumbled. My resolve melted. It took about 15 minutes for me to decide I would be making my way to Tokyo with Shadowcat. Traveling with a friend is an incredibly good idea, by the way. It's way better to have someone to share the experience with-- from sharing meals to sharing stress. Our journey to Tokyo included a 4-hour car drive to Hachinohe, an 11-12 hour bus ride to Tokyo, and a 1.5-hour express train ride to Narita Airport. If I had done that journey on my own, forget about it. It was great having someone to joke with through all of the stress.

Traveling together also strengthens your abilities and resources. When Shadowcat and I were confused about our bus tickets and were worried about missing our bus, it was her phone that didn't have a dead battery and my Japanese ability that enabled us to talk to a customer service representative and get everything worked out. At the end of the ordeal, we could laugh about our former frustration and just relax.

If you decide to go home, know that it will cost from 1000-2000 USD for the flight. Unfortunately, since you could be placed anywhere in Japan, I can't tell you how to get to your closest international airport. There are five that I know of (not including air bases): Narita (Tokyo), Haneda (Tokyo), Itami (Osaka), Centrair (Chuubu), and Kansai. So, if you live far away from everything like I do, give yourself plenty of time to plan your traveling itinerary. This is also a great reason to make friends with fellow JETs. Doing things alone just sucks!

Travel Tip: Take a shower and wear clothes you want to sit in for 20-30 hours. Don't think, "I'm just going to be gross after the flight anyway, so I won't take a shower." SWINE! Take a shower. It'll make a world of a difference. If you're stressed out, lost, or about to miss your plane, the last thing you need to be thinking about is how gross you feel.

Another travel tip: Don't wear contacts. Wear your glasses and put your contacts in at your destination. You'll be sleepy, your contacts will be dry, and you will just generally not have a good time. They will be so unbearable that you will rip them out of your eyes in the airport parking lot and discard them without remorse.

Travel Tip 3: Do NOT under ANY circumstances forget that you need to buy a re-entry permit to get back into Japan. Yes, I put that in bold. And made it fucking huge. If you do not procure this permit, you will NOT be able to re-enter Japan on your teaching visa from JET. I don't care how much you cry. As soon as you leave the country, it will EXPIRE. Bye-bye, comfy job in Japan. Take note: Japan has gotten rid of this law, but it is not effective until 2012. Be careful. The re-entry permit can take a while to get if you live in an area where many foreigners live. I got mine in about 10 minutes because I live in the inaka. Situations will vary. You'll need your passport with visa and gaijin card. There will be a form that you fill out in the office. You'll also need to buy a special stamp for the form. Depending on your prefecture, it may be bought at a konbini or inside the building you get the permit but on a different floor. Ask around for the specifics! Your Prefectural Advisor should be able to help. Mine did. She rocks.

Travel Tip 4: Do not gorge on your home country's food. You will gain five of the eleven pounds back that you lost playing soccer all autumn. However, you will be slightly warmer than everyone else due to recent chubbiness. You will work harder to lose it again. I SAID YOU WILL WORK HARDER.

So, what have we learned? Going home doesn't mean you're pathetic. It doesn't mean you need to reassess your entire life. It just means there are things you need to do or people you need to see outside of your life in Japan. There's nothing wrong with that. If I weren't staying for two years, I would have toughed it out due to the money. As it stands, I'll be here collecting awesome paychecks for another year and a half. Mwahahaha.

Check your airline's policy on how many bags you can check for free. On Delta, I was allowed two free checked bags. When I went home, I put the smaller suitcase inside of the bigger one. When I came back to Japanland, I had two huge suitcases that flew free. Pack those bags and re-pack them to make sure everything fits properly. I actually could have brought a lot more stuff back in my larger suitcase. I've found, though, that I don't want for anything while here. On the rare occasions that we go to the foreign food store (four hours away), I don't grab a cart and start stock-piling. The only thing I bought last time was some A1 steak-sauce. The time before that, I think I bought a jar of jam. Being in Japan has made me very aware of what I eat, when, and portion size. Going back to the US was shocking. I didn't realize portions were so humongous at restaurants!

This was me: O_O

I enjoyed the food I ate during my vacation, but I won't be eating like that ever again. Japan has really put things into perspective.

Not sure if I left anything out. Ah, make sure you bring back some sort of omiyage for your coworkers. They will appreciate it way more than something you got from Japan. I brought my peeps three different types of jolly ranchers, and they loved them! Dollar store. Use it.